Cymbopogon citratus

West Indian lemongrass or just lemongrass, a showy, tropical grass with fibrous pointed leaves, quickly forms into large, dense bushes. If it spent the winter inside, it can bloom in a moderate climate.

The tuberous base gives an irreplaceable aromatic and lemony scent to Southeast Asian cuisine.

Although it used to be difficult to find it outside of that region, today it is available everywhere thanks to Thai, Malaysian, Vietnamese and Indonesian food.

It is grown in Australia, Brazil, Mexico, West Africa and in Florida and California.

FLAVOR

The taste of lemongrass is refreshingly sharp, clean and lemony with peppery notes. Lyophilized (freeze-dried) lemongrass can preserve its aroma well, but if it is air-dried, it loses its essential oils; grated lemon peel gives more flavor than dried lemongrass.

USED ARE the lower white and pale green part of the stem.

PURCHASE AND STORAGE

Fresh lemongrass can be found in Asian markets or in specialized stores. Buy sturdy stands; they must not be wrinkled or dry.

Fresh lemongrass can be kept for 3-4 weeks in a fridge wrapped in plastic. Frozen it can last up to 6 months.

Freeze-dried lemongrass is very fragrant and can be stored for a long time if stored in a well-closed container.

Dried lemongrass and lemongrass puree are also available, but lack flavor.

USE IN COOKING

Peel off the 2 outer layers and cut open the stalk if you are going to use it whole in a stew or curry; remove before serving. If lemongrass should be eaten as an ingredient in soup or salad, remove the top and cut the rest into fine rings. Start at the end and stop cutting when the stem becomes hard - large pieces are too fibrous to chew.

Ground with other spices and herbs, lemongrass is often added to pastes to flavor curries, casseroles, and stir-fried dishes.

Lemongrass is a staple ingredient in Nonya cuisine in Singapore and the southern part of Peninsular Malaysia. Used in Thai larp, curries and soups; Vietnamese salads and spring rolls; in Indonesian bumbus (spice mixture) for chicken and pork. Sri Lankan cooks use it with coconut.

Although it grows there, in India it is only used to make tea. If you grow the plant the upper parts of the leaves are good for a pleasant, refreshing tea.

Lemongrass also has its place in the Western cuisine. It goes well with almost all fish and seafood, especially crabs and scallops. Add it to the stock for poaching fish or chicken. To flavor the vinaigrette, soak a few chopped stalks in it for 24 hours.

Lemongrass is also good with fruit, use it either alone or with ginger or fennel seeds to flavor a syrup made for poaching peaches or pears.

GOOD WITH beef, chicken, fish and seafood, noodles, pork, most vegetables.

COMBINES WELL WITH basil, chili, coriander, cinnamon, cloves, coconut milk, galangal, garlic, ginger, turmeric.