Myristica fragrans

Inside the peach-like fruit of Myristica fragrans is a hard seed, the core of which is the spice, nutmeg. Around that seed is a lacy cover or aril (the shell that wraps the seed); it is another spice, mace.

Both nutmeg and mace became important products in the trade begun by the Portuguese in the 16th century; developed by the Dutch, and taken over by the English when they conquered the Spice Islands in 1796.

Planting began in Penang, Sri Lanka, Sumatra and the Federation of the West Indies, where Grenada today produces almost a third of the world's crops.

FLAVOR

Macis has a rich, fresh and warm aroma of nutmeg, but the scent is stronger and shows a more lively, floral character with notes of pepper and cloves.

Its taste is warm, aromatic, delicate and subtle with a lemony sweetness, yet ends with a strong bitterness.

USED IS the shell that wraps the seed.

PURCHASE AND STORAGE

Ground mace is more readily available than pieces (called blades), which are worth seeking out. They can be kept almost indefinitely in a vacuum-sealed container, and they can be ground in a spice grinder.

USE IN COOKING

In Southeast Asia and China, mace and nutmeg are used more for their medicinal properties than for their culinary properties. In other countries, cooks often use them interchangeably, although nutmeg is widely used because it is cheaper.

Macis elevates béchamel and onion sauces, clear soups, shellfish stock, meat cooked in a pot, cheese soufflés, chocolate drinks and cream cheese desserts.

Mace should be used instead of nutmeg to preserve the delicate color of the dish. Whole mace leaves can be used to flavor soups and stews, but should be removed before serving.

In Indonesia, after the mace and the core (walnut) are removed from the outer shell or apple, the outer flesh is candied. In Sulawesi, in particular, it is dried in the sun and sprinkled with palm sugar, after which it becomes almost transparent.

IT IS GOOD WITH cabbage, carrots, cheese and cheese dishes, chicken, egg dishes, thick fish and seafood soups, lamb, milk dishes, onions, pates and terrines, potatoes, pumpkin pie, spinach, sweet potatoes, veal

COMBINED WELL WITH cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin, ginger, nutmeg, ground paprika, pepper, thyme